Killarney

“It is impossible to write here. Beautiful visions crowd on the mind too rapidly to record…Oh Killarney! Thou art the most delightful provoking place that I ever visited.”
— Lady Chatterton, Rambles in the South of Ireland, 1839.

Killarney or Cill Airne is one of Ireland’s premier holiday destinations. This is partly due to the spectacular scenery that surrounds the city, and of course, the warm welcome that locals extend to the million visitors that visit Killarney every year. Killarney showcases nature on a grand scale, surrounded by the Macgillycuddy Reeks, Ireland’s highest range of mountains, and located on the shores of the three lakes, Lough Leane (the Lower Lake or ‘Lake of Learning’), Muckross Lake and the Upper Lake.

Killarney’s 10,236 hectare National Park is an attraction not to be missed. Enclosed within the national park are the three Lakes of Killarney and an extensive variety of both native and subtropical flowering plants. The park contains the most extensive area of natural woodlands remaining in Ireland alongside the only remaining native herd of red deer in the country. There are also specific sights within the park suitable for all those with an interest in history. Ross Castle, former residence of the O’Donoghues dates back to the 15th century and was the last place in Munster to succumb to Cromwell’s forces.

From Ross Castle boats can be hired to be rowed to the island of Inisfallen. The first monastery on the island was said to be founded by St. Finian, the Leper in the 7th Century. The monastery on Innisfallen became a very important centre of learning in the early Christian period in Ireland and is often referred to as “one of the oldest Universities in Europe”. It is claimed that Ireland’s High King Brian Boru was educated there. The monks on the island completed the Annals of Innisfallen in the 14th Century that remain a vital source of information for early Irish history. So inspiring is this island, Thomas Moore scripted the poem “Sweet Innisfallen” after visiting the island.

The Muckross estate, also located within the park, contains Muckross House, Abbey, Gardens and traditional farms. Muckross House is a 19th Century Tudor mansion that exhibits the furniture, fittings and jewellery of that time. The gardens are renowned world-wide for their beauty and include a 17 acre arboretum. The traditional farms are full working examples of rural life in the 1930’s. It is possible to meet and chat with the farmers and their wives as they go about their daily work. The abbey was originally known as the Monastery of ‘Oir Bhealach’ or ‘Eastern Way’. The Abbey is one of the most complete examples of a medieval Irish monastery.

Outside of the National Park another must-see includes the Gap of Dunloe. This is a spectacular 10km trek that passes imposing cliffs, rock formations and deep mountain lakes. The trek can be undertaken by foot, bike, and horse or in a traditional horse-drawn carriage.

The Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry is deservedly Ireland’s most popular touring area. The 179km circuit encompasses breathtaking scenery including windswept cliffs, carved out of rock by the last Ice Age 10,000 years ago. Other scenic wonders on this circuit are the spectacular lakes and unspoilt beaches. The coastal roads provide an ever changing landscape around the Iveragh peninsula. The ring is said to “change a hundred times in a hundred miles”. The region is world famous for outdoor pursuits including diving, cycling, riding, golf and angling, especially for salmon and trout. Beautiful but intensive walking routes also abound. The ring of Kerry provides an amazing insight into the heritage of Ireland with Iron Forts, Ogham Stones and Old Monasteries to visit.

Skellig Islands

A boat trip to the Skellig islands involves a 12km trip out in the Atlantic Ocean to one of Ireland’s World Heritage Sites. The islands include Skellig Michael and Little Skellig.

Christian monks in their desire for solitude established a community here from the 7th to the 13th Century. The monastery is located on Skellig Michael just below the highest point on the island that rises to 218 metres. This monastery is the best preserved early Christian monastery in Western Europe with oratories and beehive cells that vary in size. There are records of Viking raids in 812 and 823 that resulted in the killing and kidnapping of monks but the community survived until the 12th Century when it is thought that an extremely severe Atlantic storm forced the monks to abandon the rock.

The bird colonies that inhabit both islands are a remarkable sight. Little Skellig is home to approximately 23,000 gannets that crowd every nook and ledge on the island. The puffins with their multicoloured beaks and waddling gait are also a favourite among visitors. Dolphins may be seen during the boat trip.

The Skellig Region- Derrynane National Historic Park

The ancestral home of Daniel O’Connell, Derrynane House is a public museum commemorating one of Ireland’s leading historical figures, known by the nation as the Great Liberator. O’Connell though from a humble background himself inherited Derrynane from his uncle, ‘Hunting Cap’ O’Connell who made his wealth through smuggling with France and Spain. O’Connell first came to prominence as a Barrister having defending the rights of Catholics being tried for their beliefs. O’Connell founded the Catholic Association in 1823, which initiated a mass movement that strived for equal rights and religious tolerance for Catholics. His greatest achievement was the establishment of the Catholic Emancipation Act in 1829.

The house is situated on 120 hectares of parklands and the house displays many relics of O’Connell’s life and career. The dining room is full of 19th Century furniture and silver given to O’Connell by grateful Catholics. The drawing room is renowned for a table that was carved over a period of four years by two men. The recently restored triumphal chariot in which O’Connell rode around Dublin after his release from prison in 1844 is also located within the park.

Listowel

Kerry is the county most associated with arts and culture in Ireland. Kerry has a strong history of literary and musical talent. Listowel, the birthplace of John B. Keane, hosts an annual writers’ week at the beginning of June. The writers’ week consists of competitions for both emerging and established writers, literary workshops and readings from famous Irish authors including Colm Tóibin, Roddy Doyle. The late John B. Keane also gave readings from his very own pub located in the town.

Dingle

Last but not least on the list of locations to visit is the Dingle Peninsula. The National Geographic Traveler has described it as: “as the most beautiful place on earth”. The town of Dingle/ An Daingean features a large resident fishing fleet and as a result the town hosts some of the best seafood restaurants in Ireland. Dingle’s most renowned resident is the solitary dolphin named Fungie that has been present in the port since 1984.

Oceanworld, one of Ireland’s leading aquariums, and The Freshwater Experience Wildlife Reserve are also situated in An Daingean. Scuba-diving is popular in Dingle and whole day hikes leave from Dingle to Mt. Brandon, Ireland’s second highest mountain, but be warned: an all encompassing mist can cause problems for the ill-prepared hiker.

Dingle is the perfect base for a trip to the Blasket islands, an archipelago of six islands. The islands were evacuated in 1953, but the way of life that was maintained there until the 1950s was undoubtedly difficult. Population on the islands was at its highest in 1916 with 176 residents. The village never had any services and the people had to visit the mainland for all their needs. The Blaskets are noted for their literature, particularly the autobiography of Peig Sayers that portrays a lively but declining island society. The sea between the mainland and the island took its toll of islanders over the years and remained an ever-present danger. The wonderful heritage centre at Dunquin celebrates the lost lifestyle of the Blasket islanders and the Irish language and culture. The centre also hosts a marvellous showcase of arts and crafts including stained glass, ceramics, weaving, books and photography typical of the islands.

Tralee

The Conor pass will take you on your return journey to Tralee where, before you complete your travelling, it is possible to take a trip on the restored steam train to visit Blennerville Windmill, a restored 17th century windmill that is now the largest working mill in Ireland and Britain. Blennerville was one of the major ports of emigration through 1848-1950. A display detailing this emigration can be seen at Blennerville Windmill. There is also a genealogical office in Killarney for those wishing to trace their ancestry. Some of the Irish names most associated with Co. Kerry are: McCarthy, O’Donoghue, O’Sullivan, Fitzgerald.

The Aquadome and Crag Caves, all of which are in the vicinity, provide great entertainment for children while an evening for adults can be spent at the National Folk Theatre watching the group, An Siamsa Tíre, recreate aspects of Irish culture through song, dance and mime.

The Puck Fair

Killorglin in the geographical heart of Kerry is the venue for one of Ireland’s most unusual street festivals – Puck Fair. The fair is held on the 10th, 11th and 12th of August every year. The main events of the fair include the traditional horse fair, parade and coronation ceremony of King Puck, open air night concerts, fireworks displays, children’s competitions, street entertainers and dancing displays. Over 100,000 people pass through Killorglin during Puck Fair.

The origin of the puck fair is keenly debated. The most common story tells the tale of how a male goat or puck broke away from a herd that had been uprooted by Cromwell and his army as they pillaged a nearby town. This puck proceeded on his solitary way to Killorglin and as such alerted the townspeople of impending danger. This forewarning enabled them to protect themselves and their stock. In recognition of the service rendered by the goat, the people decided to institute a special festival in his honour.

The Rose of Tralee

“She was lovely and fair as the rose of the summer,
Yet ’twas not her beauty alone that won me,
Oh, no, ’twas the truth in her eyes ever beaming
That made me love Mary, the Rose of Tralee”
— William Pembroke Mulchinock, The Rose of Tralee, 1820s

The Rose of Tralee Festival is themed on the love song The Rose of Tralee, by William Pembroke Mulchinock, a 19th Century wealthy merchant who was in love with Mary O’Connor, his family’s maid. Due to the difference in social class between the two families, their love affair was discouraged. William emigrated and some years later returned to Tralee only to find Mary had died of tuberculosis. The song was inspired by his broken heart.

The festival as it is today stems from Tralee’s Carnival Queen Festival, once a thriving town event which had fallen by the wayside due to post-war emigration. The event was revived in order to bring Irish people home on holidays and to connect the global Irish community in a celebration of Irish culture. The festival includes the competition of the Roses, where women with Irish ancestry compete for the Title of the Rose of Tralee. The competition occurs alongside parades, street dancing, concerts and theatre performances.

Lughnasa

Lughnasa is a community-based festival but is particularly celebrated with the Cloghane and Brandon Celtic Festival of Lughnasa.

This festival is a revival of an ancient pre-Christian celebration of the harvest and is one of four great Celtic Festivals that divided the year. Mount Brandon was one of the venues for the hilltop assemblies in celebration of a successful harvest. Firstly, a solemn cutting of the first of the corn took place, this was then offered to the deity by bringing it to a high place (Mt. Brandon) and burying it. Much feasting and dancing followed the event. This tradition was continued in Christian times but became a pilgrimage to the mountaintop in honour of St. Brendan, patron Saint of the region.

St. Brendan was a 6th Century monk who is said to have sailed to America long before Columbus. The revived Féile is primarily an attempt to rekindle the original spirit of the event. The celebration of Lughnasa occurs in the last weekend of July where the local community and visitors gather to celebrate this rich history.

Golfing

Kerry is a haven for the keen golfer.
The Castlegregory golf course is located in the heart of the Dingle Peninsula, nestling between beautiful Lough Gill, Brandon Mountain and the Atlantic Ocean and is one of the most scenically appointed courses in the world.

The Lackabane Course and Mahony’s Point course are both close to Killarney and have the impressive McGillicuddy Reeks as their backdrop.

The Ring of Kerry Golf and Country Club is famed for its fantastic scenery, VIP playing guest list and, of course, its par 72 championship golf course. Nearby, is also one of the finest links courses in the world named the Waterville House and Golf Links. These are only a few of the championship courses that are present in Kerry.

Angling

Wild trout, spring salmon, grisle and brown trout are all in abundance in the lakes and rivers near Killarney. Other profitable hunting grounds for the game angler include the Dingle Peninsula, Kenmare and around the Beara Peninsula.

Aea Angling

The Gulf Stream waters from the Gulf of Mexico drift close to the South-West coast of Ireland and every year sub-tropical species of fish mingle with blue shark, gurnard, tope, wrasse, Pollack, mackerel, plaice, bass, ray, mullet, codling and coalfish. Fully equipped and approved boats are available at Derrynane, Cahersiveen, Killorglin and Dingle.

The Neolithic or Late Stone Age which is characterised by the development of agriculture and an increase in population occurred in Ireland between 5000-4000 BC. A picture of a peaceful people taming the edge of forests, cultivating the soil and domesticating animals has emerged. Although the Southwest is considered to have few Neolithic monuments, a recent discovery of a series of passage tombs outside Tralee has enhanced Kerry’s heritage sites.

The South-West features prominently in the history of the Copper Age. The earliest known copper mines in Europe dated between 2300 and 2100 BC have been identified on Ross Island in Killarney.

Bronze from 1800 BC and gold from 2000 BC were mined and manufactured into beautiful works of jewellery and hunting implements. The gold and bronze were mined from the deep bays of the Kerry peninsulas. The Bronze Age is evident in the Fulacht Fiadh, the outdoor cooking places which featured in the tales of Fionn Mac Cumhail. The Loch a’Dúin valley near Cloghane has remarkable monuments from the Bronze Age. In this valley of 1,500 acres, there are stone structures dating from 2500 BC up to modern times. Ireland has the second largest collection of gold in Europe; this artifactual evidence comes in the form of collars of gold, bracelets, earrings and gold boxes.

Early Celtic groups included the Ciarraighe in North Kerry, a group which later gave its name to the county. Other powerful families, such as the O’Donoghue’s, McCarthy’s and O’Sullivan’s, built great forts and castles and demanded tributes from the lesser families.

The early Christian period 400 AD to 1200 AD was one of the most notable times in the history of Kerry. Many Christian settlements and the formation of beehive huts (clochán) dwellings developed in this time. It is thought Ogham writing was developed in this time frame, north of the Iveragh peninsula. Ogham is the earliest form of Irish writing and may have been used as landmarks. Oratories, cross-slabs, shrines and sun dials are other visible features of this time. It is from this period that the finest art works were produced, such as the Book of Kells and the Ardagh Chalice. Vikings had less impact in Kerry than other parts of the country.

The Anglo Normans established themselves to the north and west of the county around 1200 AD. This heralded three centuries of control by the Geraldines- the Fitzgerald’s. A more European feudal order was established. The Anglo Normans in Ireland came into conflict with the English administration who was attempting to impose the reformation in Ireland. A long violent protest of conquest and rebellion concluded when the Geraldines were defeated and the administration was in the hands of the Protestant ascendancy, acting in the interests of England. This ascendancy suppressed Irish Catholicism, culture, political, social and economic freedom. Land agitation and campaigns for equality were instigated. Those led by Kerry man Daniel O’Connell, the Great Liberator, witnessed the most success. However, the famine of 1845-1848 took its toll on a population much dependent on agriculture and fishing. In the Dingle Poorhouse alone, up to 5,000 people died. Mass emigration and evictions followed the famine.

The late 1800s witnessed the reassertion of populist nationalism led by Parnell. Possibly the most defining moment in the formation of the Irish State was The Easter Rising of 1916, which signalled the beginning of the end of British Rule.

In recent years the traditional industries of fishing and agriculture have been in decline in Kerry. However, industry sponsorship by the IDA and Údarás na Gaeltachta has improved the situation, as has the ever expanding tourist industry, specialising in heritage tourism.