I am standing in a field in North Belfast
in the driving April rain, the mud sucking on my boots
as I tramp around
the muddy field trying to find the exact spot. It is very
cold for late April. I am trying to locate the center of
this field because this spot and the line running through
it have considerable significance.
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This field, or more
accurately the mid-line in this field
is a Peace Line, one of those boundary markers in Northern
Ireland, which are often invisible to the naked eye,
that nevertheless divide the two communities. Sometimes
the
Peace
Lines are large metal fences with differentiating graffiti
on either side, but often they are not. It is hard to
find this particular Peace Line there in the mud, but I
can
feel
it. I know where I am.
Iris Close, West Belfast, 1997 -after construction
I stand looking down towards where I was born, where Legmore
Street once stood at the turn of the road. Legmore Street
was a slum but it was a mixed slum in those days. We were
Protestant, but Joey Donaghy next door and the Rock family
two doors up were Catholic. Roman Catholic we used to say
then. Out of curiosity, I have examined the Belfast Street
Registers for the years before the First World War and my
grandfather is there in the street at the same number that
I grew up in and Joey Donaghy's father was in the house
next door even then.
They were both there for the work in the linen mills.
Religion, I suppose, was always known and recognized but
it was secondary to the work and it was the opportunities
that this work provided that came first. We were all working
class then first and foremost.
But things were to change. I remember as a teenager watching
the burning houses further down towards the center of Belfast,
in one of those streets that led from the Shankill to an
area that I knew less well. Burning out, they called it.
'We're burning them out', they would say. We burnt out their
lot, they burnt out ours. Then there was the intimidation.
It almost sounds Northern Irish, these days.
It's got a local ring about it. Communities separated
and divided as a result of this intimidation. Families
left the area that they had lived in for generations.
They moved house by house. There were no wagon trains
like in Kosovo, just individual families getting out when
they had to, with what they could gather around them.
The Catholics at the bottom of the Ligoniel road moved
to the top of the road, the Protestants at the top moved
to the bottom. It was a distance of perhaps four hundred
yards but that was all that was required to feel safe,
to be with your own kind, to feel secure. Sometimes the
intimidation was psychological, sometimes it was not.
There have been more than 600 sectarian murders in North
Belfast over the past thirty years.
After the streets became segregated you may have bumped
into your old neighbors at the doctor's or the chemist's,
but in few other places. Neighbors of a hundred years standing
were separated by these little invisible lines in the road.
You just didn't go there anymore unless you had to, you
didn't normally cross the line. And when you did, when you
really had to, it was all very brief-a few snatched words,
the odd nod of recognition, no time for chit-chat.
Families that you once knew so well got on with the ordinary
business of life, birth and death, without you knowing.
My mother would get to hear that so-and-so had died and
tell me. 'I never knew', I would say. 'How would you?'she
would reply. 'I didn't hear for over a year afterwards
and I grew up with her.'
This is, I suppose, what a divided community entails.
Now an organization called Habitat for Humanity wants to
change all that. They want to build houses on this peace
line, the one in that particular muddy field. And they want
something else as well, they want the Protestants and the
Catholics to build each other's houses. I mean literally
build each other's houses using their own hands and their
own toil. They even have a name for this, they call it 'sweat
equity'. The house is sold at less than cost for about thirty
thousand pounds, but each family has to put four hundred
hours into the building work. This is the sweat equity calculated
for each family.
They are currently working on a staunchly Protestant estate
in Glencairn. This is just across Harmony Hill from Ligoniel.
It is a name that will ring a bell with some people. It
is where the Shankill Butchers, out to terrorise the terrorist
in their words, dumped the butchered bodies of a number
of their innocent Catholic victims.
Now, I am standing on a small hill at the back of a house
listening to laughter rising into the air from down below.
I can see brightly coloured balloons float off into the
sky. It seems incongruous to hear laughter like that, here
of all places. I watch a group of teenage girls carry a
concrete beam across to the base of a house. I can hear
American accents and more girlie laughter. These are volunteers
young enough to have heard and read about the Shankill Butchers
as history.
The organization of the building work on the site is surprising.
They have only two full-time professional workers on the
site Gerry Crossin and Vernon Toogood, the rest are all
volunteers who have never done any building work before.
Prayers are said at the start of work and at the end. A
number of the timber framed houses are 'women build', only
worked on by women.
The first Habitat for Humanity development in Northern
Ireland was Iris Close near Beechmount in Catholic West
Belfast. They built their first houses on some waste land
that a builder had vacated, having been chased off by the
local Republican paramilitaries. Habitat for Humanity moved
in, building decent and affordable houses in this deprived
area, practising the founder, Millard Fuller's philosophy
of 'The Theology of the Hammer'. I talk to Rita Carson who
has got a house in Iris Close. She tells me that she had
never hammered a nail in before she worked on her own and
her neighbors' houses. She invites me up to her house in
Catholic West Belfast.
'But let me warn you', she says, 'it's a hard house to
get out of.'
I ask her if this development is integrated (I use the
term 'mixed'), but she looks at me with a little hurt in
her eyes. 'God didn't put a label on my head saying Protestant
or Catholic, you know.'
I go back to my vantage point at the top of the muddy hill,
I stand there looking down towards Belfast Lough, I can
see the yellow cranes of the Shipyard and beyond that on
the side of a hill, I can just make Stormont out. I never
realised that you could see it from here, somebody had to
point it out to me.
I hear prayers starting in some strange and foreign tongue.
Someone tells me that it's Swahili. I approach Peter who
is leading the prayers. He is from Kenya and he is here
in Glencairn with his wife and four young children. He tells
me that he is in Belfast because he is a missionary, and
that he has a debt to pay back to the country that in the
past, produced so many missionaries for Africa.
I ask him if he is not worried about living on the Glencairn
estate, but he tells me emphatically that he is not. He
had been to Belfast before and during his training and now
he has returned. 'They call me the Irishman in Kenya, you
know', he says. He explains that church numbers are declining
in Northern Ireland but rising in Kenya, he says that he
wants to help start a revival here. His children standing
in the sleet of Glencairn say that they miss their friends
badly. 'But God's work needs to be done', says Peter.
Neither Iris Close nor the development in Glencairn is
integrated. I find this out slowly over the course of the
morning, slowly because nobody talks about Protestant or
Catholic. 'Just labels', somebody else says. Work with both
communities to establish simultaneous housing programmes
in Ligoniel and Ballysillan has already started. The buffer
zone separating the two communities provides the opportunity
for a project that both communities can share in. This,
I suppose, will be Habitat for Humanity's greatest challenge
in Northern Ireland. To those who know the area it represents
a considerable challenge but they have the backing of local
community groups from both sides of the Peace Line. A lot
of prayers are also being said for the project.
I leave this group laughing and joking in the cold driving
rain and as I make my way to my car something happens. The
sun quite dramatically breaks through the thick blanket
of grey rain clouds. It is as sudden as that. Suddenly I
am standing in warm Easter sun looking back at them. It
is only a gap in the April showers, I know that, but it
seems awfully symbolic that day. For some reason it just
seems awfully symbolic.
-Geoffrey Beattie
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